Today in Las Vegas Magazine

Prime Time Dining

You have to hand it to Mr. Michael Gaughan - that in these times of financial uncertainty and rising prices, the South Point has, once again, gone against the grain, by remaining firm and steadfast in offering quality food at reasonable prices.

Take the case of Primarily Prime Rib though while offering a very simple and pared-down menu, does not sacrifice quality, service or ambiance – which is always the stamp of Michael Gaughan.

Shrimp Cocktail	Spinach & Cheese Dip	House Salad

While it calls itself a casual restaurant, the décor is lush, muted and elegant, with numerous booths lining the room and high-backed upholstered chairs providing a cozy feeling of dining in a club. In the middle of the dining room is a glass wall that lends a modern, upmarket and artistic touch to the restaurant.

Service is prompt and not officious – which is always appreciated. This is a place where you can come dressed in jeans and a t-shirt and still be treated well and the same as if you were wearing a suit and tie. This is also a place where tradition reigns supreme, as all orders are served tableside via a wooden service cart.

The menu selection seems to offer tried-and-true favorites, from appetizers to the main courses and down to desserts. We started off with a classic, the shrimp cocktail, and a not-so-classic, the hot spinach and cheese dip. The shrimp cocktail was generous, to say the least, and the cocktail sauce was done particularly well – it was tangy, with a kick, and did not taste of anything bottled. The hot spinach and cheese dip was a surprise – it was creamy, full of spinach, cheese and artichoke hearts, and the flat bread it was served with had a slightly sweet flavor, providing a good contrast to the savory dip. We could not stop eating this well beyond our first course.

Crusted Sea Bass	Cajun Prime Rib	Chocolate Cake

We opted to sample some seafood and of course, the prime rib, for our main courses. The sautéed sea bass was an inspired choice. We’re not quite sure this is sautéed though, because the sesame seed crust was perfectly done and perfectly crunchy throughout, with no soggy areas. It was flaky, meaty and absolutely wonderful. It came served on a bed of stir-fried vegetables with a light teriyaki broth, though it seemed more of a sauce than broth, but we’re not complaining.

All main courses come with a choice of salad or soup and rice pilaf or a baked potato. We tried each one and all of them proved to exceed our expectations. The house salad was refreshing and quite substantial with corn and lots of shredded cheese; and the split pea soup was hearty enough as a starter, with its creamy, rich base.

On to the prime rib – which is the star of the restaurant – and rightly so. The prime rib here is specially selected, aged and slowly roasted to ensure full flavor and tenderness. Traditionalists will want to order it straight-up – as in the case of the ‘South Point cut,’ which is the most popular cut, or for the really hungry, they have what is called ‘the cowboy cut’ which is extra thick, double cut with the bone. We tried the Cajun cut – for something different, and boy did it have a kick, but in a good way. The rub consists of Italian seasoning, pepper and cayenne pepper, at least according to the assistant chef, and let me tell you – the cayenne certainly does the trick. It was hot and spicy, but extra tender. The prime rib is served solo; in a way, letting the meat speak for itself and so it should, for it can stand on its own.

Even the desserts take on the traditional route with peach bread pudding, ice cream and sherbets, a chocolate layer cake or cheesecake – any one of these is guaranteed to satisfy a yen for the sweet stuff.

And so we come to the end, and even here, the service is impeccable. The wait staff graciously offered us ‘to go’ boxes, without making us work for it – an extra nice touch which seems to be SOP for a Michael Gaughan property. Most establishments speak of value-for-money offers, this restaurant actually practices it.

-Rachel M. Sugay

Primarily Prime Rib, 2nd Floor
South Point Hotel Casino Spa. 702-797-8075. Open daily for dinner, 5-10 p.m., Sunday-Thursday; 5-11 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Price range: Cocktails, $6. Appetizers, $5.95-$9.95. Entrees, $13.95-$21.95. Roast Prime Rib of Beef, $14.95-$19.95. Vegetables, $3.50. Desserts, $4. Beverages, $2.50-$3.