 Flights
of Fancy
In
most cases, food can serve as a unifying factor, though I find,
in some instances here, it can become a case of ‘lost in translation.’
While the American palate has grown by leaps and bounds over the
last decade, embracing the cuisine of other countries and cultures
and making it their own, there is still a big divide between what
is ‘authentic’ (how it is enjoyed in the respective
country) and what is being served here (the ‘Americanized’
version).
At
Onda Ristorante and Wine Lounge, these two seem to meld together
quite well, blending classic Italian favorites with wines, both
from the old and new worlds, and in the process, finding a happy
medium. The most basic difference, I think, is that you won’t
see a slew of “wine lounges” in Europe, especially France
and Italy, because wine is so commonplace in their diet and lifestyle.
Another difference is that the version of ‘appetizers’
served here are patterned after the Spanish ‘tapas,’
though not in the strict traditional sense and have become quite
‘Americanized,’ as with the inclusion of pastas and
seared foie gras. In essence, what is served at Onda are small plates
of hot or cold snacks, and even then, take note, these plates aren’t
so tiny.
 No
matter. I’d venture to boldly recommend that you may not have
to have a full dinner (at the ‘ristorante’) and can
simply while away your entire evening sipping wine and savoring
small bites at the lounge. Though, if you absolutely must have a
main course, you can still order off the main menu and have it served
to you at the lounge, in what I’d like to think of as a far
more hipper ambience.
Onda
Wine Lounge is one of your better bets on the Strip for good wine
(good food and a good time), minus the stuffiness of a ‘swirl,
sniff, sip and spit’ scenario. Mirage Director of Wine, Mark
Thomas, is very proud of “his baby” and specifically,
of Rush Hour Wine – a complimentary wine tasting held at Onda
every Friday, from 5-7 p.m. He adds, “We’re overwhelmed
by the amount of people who have taken to Rush Hour Wine. We’ve
been doing this since late January and quite surprised at how guests
and locals have embraced this.”
Spoiled
for choice, we decided to try the syrah (shiraz) wine flight as
well as order some of the popular ‘appetizers’ on the
menu. During the entire evening, we were in the very capable hands
of Margaret Micheletti, who herself used to run a restaurant in
Italy. The syrah flight consisted of two wines from California,
one from France and another from Australia. A wine flight (or tasting
flight) is a grouping of several wines, poured in two or three ounce
quantities, and sold as a set. Obviously, the categories differ
and are ‘arranged by theme’ – whether it be a
specific grape variety, per country or per winemaker. This particular
flight cost a very affordable $32. The obvious benefit being that
you can sample a selection of wines without having to commit to
an entire bottle, or pay ‘by-the-glass’ prices.
 On
to the ‘little plates’ we ordered which were the calamari
fritti, bruschetta with tomatoes, orzo and orecchiette pasta and
truffled parmesan chips. Most of the appetizers on the menu are
fairly affordable, with prices averaging $4-$8, save for the osetra
caviar, at a whopping $120 or the foie gras, at $16. All were done
adequately, such as the calamari fritti and bruschetta, and by that
I mean quite good and nothing close to the generic bar-chow or appetizers
you might get at a restaurant chain. The pastas, by no means a classic
appetizer, was surprisingly very good. Even more surprising was
how well it went with the wine, naturally complementing the selections
on offer. The orzo pasta, (shaped like rice grains), was wonderfully
rich and creamy due to the presence of sweet corn and leeks with
a chardonnay base. Same with the orecchiette (little ears) with
its accent of seasonal mushrooms
and parsley pesto. Both went divinely well with the selection of
syrahs, though I have to add
that we also sampled some white wines – Tocai and Dr. Loosen
– and that brought out the flavors as well.
 The
truffled parmesan chips, on the otherhand, should be a classic,
for the way it elevates the lowly potato chip to a gourmet snack.
The musky, pungent and rich undertones of truffle oil combined with
the sharpness of the parmesan was perfect.
You
might not think that you can get full from such small plates, but
trust me, you will. Though, fools that we were, we still wanted
to sample something from the dining menu so we opted for the osso
buco (braised veal shank), which was so tender, we ate it with a
spoon.
Did
I mention that there’s also an extensive dessert and cheese
menu? For the sweet tooth, sample the tiramisu (which seems big
enough for four) or the chocolate mousse. For the wine lover, you
might want to try an after-dinner cheese course and continue on
with another  ‘flight’
or simply indulge in some dessert wine.
At
Onda, good food, good wine and good company certainly made for one
fantastic evening.
-Rachel
M. Sugay
Onda
Ristorante & Wine Lounge
Mirage Hotel. Open daily, 5-11 p.m. 791-7354 or 1-866-339-4566.
Rush Hour Wine – complimentary wine tasting every Friday,
5-7 p.m. Stuzzichini (appetizers), $4 to $16. Cheese selection,
$16. Meat selection, $15. Antipasti, $9-$16. Insalate, $9-$11. Pasta,
$19-$36. Fish, Meat and Onda Specials, from $32. Wines by the glass,
from $8.
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