Today in Las Vegas Magazine

Chairman Mao’s Legacy

The brainchild of Jonathan Morr of Republic (NY) fame, Mainland offers a similar formula of very, very affordable Asian cuisine, without sacrificing on the restaurant design and hip-factor. If a recent trip to the Palazzo has gotten you discouraged about ever dining there; or worse, intimidated you because of the presence of such celebrity chefs as Mario Batali, Charlie Trotter or Emeril Lagasse, then take heart, because now there is Mainland.

The best way to describe the restaurant is that it’s an upmarket noodle house, but with decidedly ‘downmarket’ prices. Not to say that that it’s ‘food-court’ material, it’s not and that’s the beauty of Morr’s concept. The menu is a collaboration between Chefs Hisham Johari (previously of Red 8 at the Wynn) and Julie Farias.

Clockwise from top left: duck potstickers, grilled calamari, chicken rice, walnut shrimp, phad thai, and chicken skewers

The menu boasts Southeast Asian fare, as well as, of course, noodles and something along the lines of what can best be described as “All-Time Asian Favorites.” Fans of Chef Johari can expect his stamp on most of the dishes, specifically, the chicken skewers (“satay” to most Asians) and most items listed in the category “small dishes;” as well as the braised short rib (or “beef rendang” as we call it) and poached chicken (read: “chicken rice”). The noodle dishes, as expected, are expertly and exquisitely done.

We started off with a very large selection of small dishes – duck potstickers, grilled calamari, shrimp toast with pork and eggplant dip, chicken skewers, walnut shrimp and crispy vegetable wontons. We would be very hard-pressed to name a favorite, and in fact, would go so far as to recommend you attempt to at least try and order a handful of them. Everything was great and didn’t come served in a heaping plate, so there’s enough to give you a taste, without making you too full to sample a main dish.

What we do always end up ordering again and again are the duck potstickers, the shrimp toast (aka prawn crackers), the chicken skewers – which are perfectly marinated and grilled; and grilled calamari – so tender and not at all chewy, as is the case with over-cooked squid.

Admittedly, we knew the chef, so more often than not, we could control the ‘heat factor’ of the dishes – we like it really, really spicy. Although, even if you don’t, we doubt your request to make it ‘hotter’ or ‘milder’ will be ignored. On a recent visit, though, it seems that the dishes have been “tempered” and seemed much milder than usual.

But on to the main dishes. Being Asian, we share most dishes, and therefore have the luxury of ordering more food, so that everyone can get a taste of everything. Though if you’re solo, the noodle and rice dishes are substantial enough to fill you up. Big, deep white bowls hold a steaming mass of noodles of all kinds – egg, wheat, glass, ramen or rice – either immersed in a fragrant broth, or stir-fried and topped with meat and vegetables. We love the braised short rib, which is actually a beef rendang – slow cooked beef brisket, simmered for hours in a mixture of lemongrass, galangal (Asian ginger), turmeric, chilli and coconut-milk; until fork-tender and the meat just falls-away.

The poached chicken (or Hainanese chicken rice, to a Southeast Asian) is just that – the chicken is actually boiled with some ginger and garlic, with the resulting broth used for soup (as a side dish) as well as to cook the rice – making it a slightly richer version than if it was just steamed.

The hip factor comes in with its impressive sake selection; as well as alcoholic milkshakes, cocktails and refreshing fruit drinks.

Bottom line? This is Strip dining, but not at Strip prices. The cuisine is just as authentic as what you might find in Chinatown, with the added oomph of being at The Palazzo. In today’s economy, this might very well be the best bargain there.

-Rachel M. Sugay

Mainland
2nd Floor, The Palazzo. Open daily, 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday-Thursday; till 12 a.m., Friday-Saturday. 702-739-6462. Price range: Small dishes, $7-$9. Noodles and noodle soups, $12-$15. Rice, $12-$14. Sides, $2-$6. Dessert, $7. Sake, $7-$15.