 Mughlai
Masala
You’ve probably heard of the term ‘Delhi
Belly,’ though don’t let this put you off Indian food.
I eat it all the time and if I do get a stomachache, it’s
probably because I ate too much. Admittedly, in general, the food
presentation could use a little makeover. Most dishes are very vivid
in color and made with a combination of spices (masala) or ingredients
– either yellow (turmeric), red (chili) or olive green (lentils
and spinach) - and for a first timer, this might be too much to
take in. But trust me, they more than make up for it in taste. Perhaps
all it takes is an open mind and adventurous palate.
We started off with a very refreshing mango lassi
– a blend of yogurt, mango and milk that can best be described
as an Indian smoothie. Aside from giving us respite from the heat,
it also served as an excellent dousing agent for the heavily spiced
dishes we knew were coming. Another great beverage choice would
be lemonade; though an even better one would be lime juice. 
Owned and managed by Surjit Heera, (his brother
is the chef), India Palace has been around for almost 10 years.
You know that anyone who eats here has not found it by accident.
We’re betting it’s more likely by word of mouth. Located
off-Strip, on Twain, between Paradise and Maryland Parkway, it’s
in a fairly residential area, so there’s not much tourist
traffic that comes this way.
If you’re unfamiliar with Indian food, then
opt for the lunch buffet. For $9.95, you can eat your fill of traditional
favorites like tandoori chicken, sambar vada (lentil-based dish),
dosa (Indian crepe), vegetable pakora (Indian tempura), yellow dal
(lentils), aloo gobi (potato and cauliflower curry), Basmati rice
and more. Although having said that, the place was packed with Indian
families on the Saturday we visited. We came late, about 1:30 p.m.,
and nearly every table was occupied – grandmothers in their
saris, and grandfathers in their kurtas, the parents and grandchildren,
in more modern dress, but just as traditional as they eat with their
hands. This didn’t subside by the time we left an hour later.
During lunch, you can also order from the menu
should you choose to supplement the items from the buffet –
which is what we did. We ordered a handful of dishes – chicken
tikka masala, mixed grill tandoori, sag paneer, peas pulao with
Basmati rice and nan. We would be hard-pressed to name a favorite
- all were so delicious and we kept coming back to ‘sample’
each and every dish.
The mixed grill tandoori, comprising of shrimp,
lamb, fish and chicken (done in two ways), was tasty and so perfectly
spiced. The chicken tikka and tandoori were so tender, probably
due to its yogurt-based spice marinade. Our server Mandeep explained
the difference between the two, which is that chicken tikka is boneless
while the other is not. The lamb was delicately-flavored, and not
at all heavy on the palate; and the fish, though meaty, still maintained
its flakiness – all of which we’re sure got some help
from being cooked in a tandoor (clay oven). All of these grilled
meats went well with both the peas pulao with basmati rice, or,
if you favor bread, then the garlic, cheese or plain nan (unleavened
flat bread) will do nicely too. This was accompanied by two chutneys,
tamarind and coriander, and while both complemented the mixed grill,
were really not necessary and are added bonuses. The sag paneer
(spinach with cottage cheese) was a classic done right. Chunks of
cottage cheese, with chopped spinach and topped with some cream,
butter or ghee (clarified butter). This version wasn’t as
spicy as we were used to, but the mildness had a charm all its own.
The chicken tikka masala, another popular dish, was so rich; boneless
chicken pieces immersed in a rich, cream-based tomato sauce. The
bowl that it was served in was a delight in itself, and a mystery
- for it seemed small, but we found that no matter how many times
we went back to it, it just never seemed to go empty. The nan was
perfect for sopping up the sauce from both dishes.
Indian desserts are just as sweet and savory as
their main course counterparts, with most having a milk and cheese
base. Take the gulab jamun, sweetened milk balls served with sugar
syrup; or the ras malai, creamed cheese patties in a sweet, thickened
milk sauce.
India Palace offers one of the better deals in
town as evidenced by their numerous awards from Zagat and other
local magazines. It’s obvious that for the majority of diners,
this is as close to a taste of home they’re going to get;
for the rest, it’s an authentic introduction to the wonderful
world of masala.
-Rachel M. Sugay
INDIA PALACE 505 E. Twain, between
Paradise and Maryland Parkway. 796-4177. Delivery, take-out and
catering available. Open daily, 11 a.m.-2 p.m., lunch; 5 -10:30
p.m., dinner. Price range: Lunch buffet, $9.95. Appetizers, $1.50-$6.95;
Rice, $6.95-$13.95; Indian breads, $2.95-$9.95; Tandoori and oven-baked
dinners, $13.95-$15.95; Chicken, lamb and seafood, $12.95-$15.95;
Vegetables, $10.95-$12.95; Dessert, $3.50.
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