Today in Las Vegas Magazine

Still In Its Prime, After 40 Years

Now I realize why they call Hugo’s Wine Cellar downtown’s sleeper hit. Tucked away in the Four Queens Hotel, it’s easy to miss against the bright neon lights of Fremont Street and the omnipresent “All-You-Can-Eat” buffets beneath the Viva Vision canopy. But, there is a reason why this restaurant has remained the locals (and loyal tourists) favorite for years, and why it has been in operation since 1965. Needless to say, the food is excellent. No matter how charming or historic a restaurant is, people won’t come back year after year, if the food is anything less than stellar and at Hugo’s it is, and more.

The restaurant has successfully integrated a value-for-money offer, while maintaining its “gray lady” and “old Vegas” elegance, as well as, of course, the quality of its food. For starters, dinners (entrees) come with complimentary salad and dessert (after-dinner treats). In short, you get a three-course meal for the price of one. An extra nice touch is the complimentary bottle of Evian water, saving you from that dreaded question, “still or sparkling?” You also get a basket of warm breads, which they are more than happy to replenish. It’s the little details like these that one barely notices, but make an impact on the overall dining experience.

Hugo’s Hot Rock Specialty	Caesar Salad

A rose theme carries throughout the restaurant – from the minute you enter – ladies receive a long-stemmed red rose; to when you’re seated – the booths that line the wall have a mini lamps with rose-shaped shades; and even the butter served with the bread is shaped like a rose; which as Restaurant Manager Albert Steele says, “It’s very old-school and very traditional.” He should know. The transplanted Englishman, who resembles the actor, Michael Caine in looks and voice, used to work as a butler for the Kennedys – but that’s another story for another time.

So on to the food. We started with the hot rock appetizer, which came highly recommended. Choice cuts of beef, chicken, swordfish and shrimp are marinated and then cooked tableside on a granite slab, heated to a 450°F temperature. Their version was surprisingly delicious. Having experienced this ages ago when it was all the rage, I found that cooking chicken usually leaves less than desirable results, but this was not the case here. It was tender and well-marinated, as was the rest of the selection. Though not a huge fan of shrimp and fish, I ate these with gusto. I don’t know how it’s possible that the shrimp was both crispy and tender at the same time, not at all chewy. The meats come with a choice of three dipping sauces – Bearnaise (a favorite), plum and Asian-mustard.

Veal Oscar	Bananas Foster

The tableside-prepared salad was a meal in itself. Aside from the selection of three dressings – caesar, pepper ranch and creamy vinaigrette – a medley of toppings are also offered. There’s everything ranging from bay shrimp to cubes of blue cheese. And believe me when they say “cubes,” they mean cubes. This isn’t the crumbled afterthought you will find most everywhere. I chose the caesar and was extremely satisfied with my combination. Take it from me, a non-salad eater, this was excellent – crisp, crunchy, and can stand on its own as a separate (albeit lighter) meal. It’s also at this point where you are served a sorbet (funnily enough, in a cake cone) as a palate cleanser.

For my main course, I opted for the Veal Oscar, which is a very traditional, rarely seen dish. Scalloped veal is sautéed and topped with a Bordelaise sauce; then further topped with white asparagus, king crab legs and béarnaise sauce. I couldn’t have been happier – all my favorites on one plate.

If you still have room for dessert, on top of the chocolate-dipped fruits and cream, then why not go the whole hog and order one of two classic desserts on the menu – cherries jubilee or bananas foster. This is one of the few restaurants left that still serve and prepare this dessert anachronism.

Make the effort to visit downtown, if only to come and dine here. You don’t need to be over-60 to appreciate the traditional bells-and-whistles. Dollar for dollar, and service for service, it’s worth it. At Hugo’s Cellar, you get more than what you pay for and in these times, trust me, you won’t regret it.

-Rachel M. Sugay

Hugo’s Cellar, Four Queens Hotel
Open daily, 5:30-11 p.m., Sunday-Thursday; from 5 p.m., Friday -Saturday. 702-385-4011. Price range: Appetizers, $12-$19. Entrees (seafood, steaks, lamb, veal and chicken), $34-$135. Dessert, $6-$8. Dinner is served with a complimentary bottle of Evian water, assorted warm breads, Hugo’s table side salad, fruit sorbet, sides of seasonal vegetables and potatoes, and dessert.