Today in Las Vegas Magazine

Home of the Range

I will try anything once, at least I like to think I will, so when an invitation came to sample some cowboy fare at Sahara’s House of Lords, I jumped at the chance. After all, it’s not every day that one can sample rattlesnake, buffalo and bull’s testicles in one fell swoop.

Let me say first-up that none of the items taste like chicken. Not at all. Not a single one. And why you would want something other than chicken to taste like chicken is beyond me. And lest you think this is a feature on bizarre foods or a mini fear-factor, it isn’t.

We’re told by Chef de Cuisine Jason Michael Segal, that these items are fairly representative of the ‘cowboys of old’ type fare – think “dinner by a campfire, in the middle of nowhere” and you’ll get the picture.

The rattlesnake, by way of Arizona, was very gamey, no surprise there. It tasted to me like crocodile, though I suppose, if you don’t have that point of reference, then, it would taste like chicken, albeit very, very chewy. Chef Jason gave us a second batch to sample, after we had to wrestle with the first one. This time, while it was no less gamey, it was tender, the texture akin to a thick cut of salmon or tuna. Because there is no traditional way of preparing rattlesnake, Chef Jason had some leeway in the types of ingredients used and manner of cooking. Maybe there’s also two ways to skin a snake. One common denominator with all types of game though, is that they’re overly seasoned, usually with some citric acid, to tenderize the meat; and seasoning and spices, to mask its gaminess. Our ‘blackened’ rattlesnake was very peppery, with a very strong kick of lemon, making it tart and hot at the same time. He continued in the same vein and served it with a Cajun butter sauce, giving it a slight touch of respectability, as befits a dining room.

As an oyster lover, I knew this version would be completely different. Rocky Mountain oysters are not oysters, but bull’s testicles; even sometimes euphemistically called “beef tendergroin.” We were served sheep’s testicles, aka lamb fries, and were told that it had the same consistency and texture. This being the first time I would sample this delicacy, I took their word for it. The restaurant’s version was slightly less traditional, and although breaded, it did not have a simple seasoned-flour coating, but instead made use of panko - Japanese breadcrumbs used to make tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet). The modern touch came via the dressing – a saffron aioli, rich and heavy with spices and seasonings. I don’t think I’ll ever see tonkatsu in the same way again.

I saved the mildest for the last. By mildest, I mean the most ‘normal-tasting.’ I’m sure that at some point in my life I’ve had buffalo steak, and buffalo-aficionados, forgive my comparison, but it tasted just like beef. It still had a hint of game, but in all, it needed no extras other than salt, pepper and a very hot grill.

The hotel, and its food outlets have quietly been undergoing revamps, to the delight of tourists, and locals. Room Chef Victor Moea, who has been with the restaurant for two years and has seen the change from the ‘old’ to the ‘new,’ says, “We’re really proud of the menu changes we’ve made here and we’ve gotten so many positive responses to this. Also, we’ve noticed that we’re since the revamp, we’re drawing a lot more locals than before.” Chef de Cuisine Jason Segal jokingly adds, “The new menu is part-California, part-New York and part-Brooklyn. We’re adding and using newer ingredients, like those that are specifically found in this region.”

No need to fret if you’re a dyed-in-the-wool, steak-and-potatoes man, the restaurant has been serving-up this fare since 1952, and with the Rat Pack as its clientele, you know it’s going to be more than good, it’s going to be excellent. Part of their regular menu comprises the tried and true – meat, meat, and more meat – this is a steak house after all.

New additions include daily specials, foie gras, and inspired sides like rocket risotto and fingerling potatoes, Serrano ham and leek hash. Desserts have gotten an upgrade, too, with the addition of molten lava chocolate cake and crème brulee.

Welcome to the new wild west.

-Rachel M. Sugay

House of Lords
Casino level, Sahara Hotel. 737-2401. Open daily for dinner, 5 – 10 p.m.; till 11 p.m., weekends. Price range – Starters, $12-$16; Soups, $9; Salads, $8-$10; Sides, $5; Steaks, $36-$49; Chops, $36-$38; Sauces, $3; Seafood, $32-$49; House Specialties, $26-$65; Desserts, $8. Special NFR menu – Dec. 5-16, dishes from $19.50 to $65.