Today in Las Vegas Magazine

New Kid on the Border

There’s a new Mexican restaurant on the block
that’s going to give others a run for their money.
Dos Caminos at The Palazzo has upped the ante with its authentic cuisine and upscale vibe while keeping the costs relatively affordable. Gone is the ‘fiesta-like’ atmosphere you see prevalent in South-of-the-Border-type places, which is now replaced by a sophistication usually reserved for fine dining restaurants.

Lest you forget, this is a restaurant that serves Mexican cuisine and you’ll find the usual suspects served here, though the combined expertise and experience of Corporate Executive Chef Scott Linquist (formerly of Border Grill) and Executive Chef Noe Alcala (who did stints at Pink Taco and more recently, Diablos Cantina) has elevated the food to a whole new level – authentic, yet modern; casual and yet elegant.

Start off with the guacamole, which we highly recommend. Everyone’s got their own take on this popular staple and Dos Caminos’ version has chunks of avocado, somehow making it richer and more substantial than just a creamy mash. Unlike most restaurants, the guacamole is not offered gratis, but must be ordered.

You may want to follow that with ceviche which is essentially raw seafood ‘cooked’ in a citrus-based marinade. We sampled the ceviche trio – comprising tuna, lobster and seafood campechana. Our favorite was the lobster – in part because of its coconut-based marinade; though the seafood campechana is probably the closest to a traditional ceviche, with its tomato-lime marinade and cilantro, jalapeño and avocado additions.

Fish tacos	Lobster ceviche

If you want something lighter, then order tacos. The Tecate-battered (Tecate is a brand of beer) fish tacos are wonderful. Thick and crunchy batter enveloping a chunk of tender mahi-mahi. Combined with a spicy slaw, green chile salsa and a warm flour tortilla, the result is an out of this world medley of taste and texture.

There are other notable dishes in the lunch and dinner menu – the first being the camarones al ajillo, sautéed shrimp with roasted garlic served over saffron chorizo
rice. Most “al ajillo” (with garlic) dishes are good enough to stand on its own, though traditionally this type of dish is usually found in tapas bars, done with baby shrimp or mushrooms. The addition of the saffron-chorizo rice is a delicious touch; a savory and slightly spicy note providing a perfect complement to the shrimp’s sweetness.

Camarones al ajillo	Cochinita pibil

Another one to try is the cochinita pibil which is slow-roasted suckling pig served
atop roasted plantains and achiote sauce. This is probably the most time-consuming item in the menu, as the pork loin-stuffed suckling pig is first marinated for hours,
which is then followed by a slow-roasting process. The end result is crispy skin,
topping the most fork-tender and flavorful pork meat.

For a more traditional dish, you can do no wrong with the black angus skirt steak, served with frijoles borrachos (beer-soaked beans with cilantro and bacon) and a roasted tomato and onion salsita. While it doesn’t veer much from the way it’s classically prepared, it is expertly executed here. The perfectly-seared steak was tender, the cumin and cilantro marinade coming through in every bite.

Because we came for lunch on the weekend, we were also able to sample the chilaquiles, which is part of the brunch menu and served only on Saturdays and Sundays. The baked tortilla casserole was topped with a sunny side-up egg and
served with a three-chili salsa, making it a very hearty meal. Other choices on the brunch menu include huevos (egg-based dishes) and casseroles, as well as corn pancakes and Mexican style French toast.

Chilaquiles	Desserts

If you have a sweet tooth, then you won’t be disappointed with what’s on offer. There’s the white and dark chocolate fondue which comes with sweet tidbits like churros and peanut butter krispies, which while good, was a bit too over-indulgent for my tastes. A better choice would be the crepas de cajeta – warm pistachio crepes with bananas, served with vanilla bean ice cream and cajeta caramel sauce – which had the right hint of sweetness without being over-cloying.

Whatever the case, there’s enough choices to please every discerning palate, from children to adults; aficionados to the newbies. As with its name, Dos Caminos which means ‘two roads,’ one always has a choice, but nowhere is this beautifully merged into one delicious combination than it is here.

-Rachel M. Sugay