Today in Las Vegas Magazine

Under The Tuscan Sun

Who would have thought that a restaurant chain could produce such out-of-this-world dishes that can stand alone and against those done by specialty, brand-name restaurants? I never would have until Brio. The newly-opened restaurant is one of 24 scattered throughout the country.

The menu specializes in Tuscan-inspired cuisine, and, according to General Manager Kenna Warner, “Most things on the menu hold true to the “Tuscan-style” of cooking; for example, there are more grilled items, and less of the creamy sauces, but lots of light, white wine-based sauces.”

While each location carries the same menu, the company is still able to assert its “food-first” philosophy by adjusting certain ingredients and menu items based on each region’s bounty. Take the Las Vegas location, which benefits from its proximity to California, as evidenced by the seafood and seasonal produce on offer. Also, each restaurant has an Executive Chef on board; this one is headed by Lou Sassetti, who introduced the paninis and sandwiches to the menu, along with the Bistecca burger.

Bruschetta sampler	Black-pepper shrimp

The bruschetta sampler is one such menu item that changes with the season. What we sampled was a selection of four creations – roasted red pepper with mozzarella, sliced steak with gorgonzola, prosciutto and grilled asparagus and roasted mushrooms with fontina cheese – all surprisingly very good – tasty, with each unique flavor bursting out of every bite. You would do well with any of these, though if pushed to a corner, I would recommend the steak with gorgonzola, this age-old, classic combination is made even better when served in bite-sized pieces.

Mushroom ravioli	Crab-cake

Another notable appetizer is the black-pepper shrimp and romano-crusted eggplant, served with a Cajun sauce. The sweetest of shrimp, paired with what is essentially an eggplant nugget - the coating remaining crunchy, despite the creamy sauce.

For pastas, try the mushroom ravioli, a Brio classic, served with gorgonzola, sage and truffle oil, it’s light and filling at the same time; with the mushroom’s woody and earthy flavor coming out in every forkful.

The choices above demonstrate Brio’s menu variety, however, I highly recommend that you order something from the grill. This is, after all, what they’re known for. The grilled salmon with angel hair pasta was an inspired choice. The salmon was at once flaky and meaty, the flavors of the grill infusing the taste buds, with a smoky, woody essence, adding depth to the fish. The center-cut, bone-in pork chop was, in contrast, an unapologetic homage to red meat; it was surprising to have a cut that thick be as tender and moist as it was. The garlic herb sauce was a perfect complement to the char-grilled flavor.

Bone-in Porkchop	Grilled Salmon

If this sounds too heavy, then opt for the crab cake. Served with roasted vegetables and crispy potatoes, it is chockful of the sweetest crab meat, with the citrus-pesto sauce adding an unexpected zing, rounding out the flavors.

Make sure you leave some room for dessert – the menu is replete with classics like tiramisu, crème brulee, cheesecake, milk chocolate caramel cake and white chocolate bread pudding. If you have a sweet tooth, order the sampler – which is all of the above, and served in dainty little espresso cups.

One word of warning, do not come here alone. Good food is made even better in the presence of family and friends. Now this is living “la dolce vita.”

-Rachel M. Sugay